PEN LLYN - JUNE 2023 Ty’n Rhyd to Aberdaron

Thursday 29th June

Glorious weather - sunny and warm, but with enough breeze to make it pleasant.

Just after 10.00 we decided to walk along the coastal path into Aberdaron - for coffee. We took the public footpath to the right a short distance before Ysgo. We unintentionally detoured slightly from the path but managed to access Llwybr Arfordir Cymru along the cliffs and into Aberdaron.

Looking southwest towards Aberdaron

View of Mynydd Rhiw, fort, and Mynydd Penarfynydd 

Brilliant views, though some of the terrain was a bit rough and overgrown with lush bracken.  

We arrived soon after midday and ordered a decent coffee in Y Gegin Fawr cafe. A lovely place in the sunshine. It felt almost mediterranean with its flowers and whitewashed walls.

Then we dawdled around gazing at the beach before having lunch of quiche and salad in Becws Islyn. Pity about the ‘compostable’ plates and cutlery, since the food was excellent.

Melin Daron

Penny wort on the roof

Afon Daron

We returned via the coastal path route along the Afon Daron, and up to Morfa, then continuing along the coastal path as far as the smaller path by the stream up to Cadlan Isaf, which joins join the minor road from Ysgo.

Since both phones ran out of charge, we estimate the distance to be about 9 miles, maybe a little more. 760 feet(ish) of ups and downs. Quite strenuous walking and the uneven conditions underfoot meant that we had to concentrate! My legs knew they had walked.

First five miles or so…

PEN LLYN - JUNE 2023 - The ancient fort at Rhiw

 Wednesday 28th June 2023

Misty this morning, then drizzle. Restlessness beginning to set in around midday.

In the afternoon, around 1545, we set off to walk to the fort on the hill close to Rhiw.

We followed the road to Groeslon , turning right towards Ysgo, but turning left with the road rather than right towards the church. The coastal path goes off to the right along a farm track to Penarfynydd farm. Last year we saw dogs, goats and chickens here. Today just the one chicken was in evidence.

Instead of the coastal path to the right, we took a smaller, less-used path close to the hedge. This joins the coastal path briefly, then heads for the ridge leading to the fort.

The terrain was rough in places, but what fabulous views from the higher ground (about 800 feet; 242 metres).

Three sides of the peninsula clearly visible. Heather coming into bloom, a couple of horses.

From the top we tried to reach the coastal path directly, but not a brilliant idea, as there were some steepish craggy drops.

Instead we found a ladder stile and took the path down into Rhiw itself, seeing some more corners of the village. Afterwards we walked down the quiet road.

Another chat with the Welsh lady at the crossroads. (Groeslon means the crossroads.) The walk was close to 4 miles. and about 525 feet of climbing

PEN LLYN - JUNE 2023 Porth Dinllaen

Tuesday 27th June

A dull morning, with very low cloud, so Harry suggested a visit to Porthdinllaen for coffee.

The car park at the entrance to the golf club is manned by a white-haired fellow with a wide grin as he takes your £5. You can park here all day for a river, says he, enjoy your walk!

Along we went across the golf course, then down into the village, a place which allows only local cars.

The weather was not good, though it was warm, and not raining. Slightly disgruntled, we went into the pub Ty Cogh for a weak coffee and over-sweet packaged cakes - overpriced and underwhelming. We should have asked for an extra shot of coffee! The staff were good and the pub was attractive.

We walked out of the village along a narrow path with a drop on the right hand side past the lifeboat station.

and emerged on the headland where we noticed cormorants and oyster-catchers on the rocks. Then a woman with her dog asked if we had seen the seals - and lent us her binoculars for a better look.

Lots of them, resting banana-shaped on the off-shore rocks. They were very vocal as well - no wonder there are folk tales about them.

She has seen porpoises on the south side of Llyn as well.

Pink oxalis/ wood-sorrel was growing by the path.

We saw swallows over the fields, and when we returned ‘home’ for lunch there was a wren at the cottage.

PEN LLYN - JUNE 2023 Porth Ysgo and Coastal path

 Monday 26th June

We ate breakfast outside, then went into Aberdaron to shop. 

Weather sunny and breezy.

We had coffee at the outside table in the garden.

My wander took me along the road past Groeslon, then right turn to Ysgo. 

At the junction I took the coastal path, admiring the profusion of wild flowers.

I made a short diversion from the path to the remains of the Manganese tramway building. A relic of past industrial development.

I returned to the coastal path, which led on above the beach and round to Ysgo, where I turned right past the little church, and continued.

I had a long chat with a local woman who was married in the little church and knew RS Thomas.

Back to Ty’n Rhyd, lunch of quiche and salad.

In the afternoon I had another short walk, just up to the small crossroads and back.

PEN LLYN - JUNE 2023 - Porth Ysgo and Llanfaelrhys

Sunday 25th June

A slow start today. Coffee around 11. Rain between 12 and 1 as forecast.

After lunch we strolled down to Porth Ysgo, sat on the beach for some time.

More than 100 steps, and no, I didn’t count them.

On the way back we called in at Llanfaelrhys church 

and went inside to the R S Thomas loft.

This local priest and poet was a strange character in many ways.

Monday 26th June